Just a quick little update today. Finally got some time yesterday to see why the engine wasn’t firing, having had both the battery and jumper pack on charge over the weekend.
I worked my way down the checklists in the Haynes and Autodata books (told you this was all new to me) and after making sure that everything was plugged in securely, then cleaning the earthing points and the plugs up managed to get it to fire, but it would only run if I floored the throttle and kept it there … but even doing that it would still only tickover. Fuel supply was fine as I could see it coming through the Filter King, and I checked the carb’s filter and free movement of the throttle cable to make sure it wasn’t a lack of juice that was the problem.
Next item on the list was the static ignition timing (is it dynamic when you use a strobe gun?) and after finding, cleaning up and then free-ing the distributor clamp bolt, I needed to rotate the dizzy about 30 degrees to have it just starting to open the points breaker for no.1 cylinder. Tightened up the bolt, refitted the cap, turned the key and it fired up sweet as you like 
There’s some exhaust fumes gently wafting out of no.4 port when I shut the engine down, which I think is due to the thread on the lower stud being stripped – I’ve not had the heart yet to undo it all and see if it’s the stud or the block 
How easy is a Helicoil/Recoil to do?
When I take it apart and want to put it back together, what’s the best way to seal the manifold? The original had no gasket, but I guess Ford were happy with their tolerances. I’ve used a new set of gaskets, but should I also be using a sealant of some form?
Once I’ve got the grille, bumpers, lights and what-not back on the front, I’ll be able to take it for a turn around the block … just remember to take my phone with me, just in case 
It’s all new to me, but it’s still fun … and I’m getting there 