Ahhhhhhhhhhh! You would not believe how cold it is out in the garage tonight!
Ran some wire through to the cockpit for the LED to show me when the fan’s on, and put it in its temporary position on the steering column shroud. It’s earthed onto the column itself, along with (I think) the ignition, so the wiring was straight-forward. The wire comes through the bulkhead to the right of the brake servo and up behind the dash, basically the same route that the oil pressure pipe would take on a 6-clock dash model.
I’m becoming less and less convinced about the long-term future of the existing capillary fan switch though – after five attempts, it’s still not sealing totally tight on the top radiator hose – which doesn’t bode well. If it’s a right struggle to get back on and sealed in a nice clean garage, what would it be like at the side of the road? I may have to add “get a boss soldered into the rad” to the list of jobs, especially if it’s then as simple as screwing in a temp switch from, say, a Sierra and connecting that to the relay to switch the fan on Suck it and see for a while methinks … after all, its not even been out for a spin yet.
As for what’s coming up in the near future … if I don’t get anything started soon, the new wheels are just going to go on as they are – otherwise I’ll never get round to it and summer will have been and gone Everyone will just have to promise not to look too closely at them and just admire from afar
There’s a new dash on the horizon too – mainly for the twin benefits of a rev counter and a trip meter. It may not sound like much, but at least being able to readily see how many miles you’ve done since you last filled up at least gives you a chance to second-guess the vague-ometer that is labelled “Fuel Level” I know some folks say that more gauges and dials just gives you more things to worry about, but I just prefer to see something happening on a gauge and get a chance to do something about it – rather than get a warning light come on telling me it’s too late anyways
I’m still desperate to get an unleaded head onto the car, so that I can stop chucking additive in and get the whole lot set up on the rollers by the local(ish) carb old-timers. If anyone’s got an unleaded head on its own, or even a full EFi top-end, please drop me a PM
I’ve got a whole whiteboard full of jobs to do … but there’s no way I’m going back out to that garage tonight to copy it down – maybe tomorrow
EDIT 20/02/08 :
dangerousdave : For a temporary fix (the boss route is the proper way round it) have you tried some instant gasket type stuff like red hermatite? Either that or some rad weld type stuff
Also for the unleaded head, just sack off the additives realistically how many miles are you planning to do in it a year and also your never gonna be thrashing the life out of it so it should last for thousands of miles before anything wears out, and when it does just get a new head on, or get the valve seats done in your current head
Graham : i dont see a problem with that, it actually takes quite a lot of miles to wear away all the lead impregnated in the valve seats, for normal every day driving it may go years and years before the valves seats recess to the point anything needs doing,
if it were mine i would just run without teh additive, if you want to keep a check on how things are going just check the exhaust tappet clearances, as they will get tight if the valve seats are wearing, you can “open” them up quite a number of times before you need to take some other action