Back in the mists of time in November, a parcel of treasure did arrive from the land of ebay …
I forgot to check the address of the chappie that sent it, but I’m guessing this Escort lived in a seaside town and was owned by the bloke who ran the salted cod factory – no other explanation for the corrosion
Stripped it down and had to abandon my initial idea of welding new brackets on once I realised it’s aluminium (or some such) … whatever it is it doesn’t work with a MIG welder The existing brackets aren’t long enough to fit the Capri’s cavernous bay and besides – one, erm, kind of got broken After a wee while with a selection of wire wheels whirring in the drill, the frame came up nice.
To work out where the brackets would need to go, I marked up the layout on the workbench (overkill for some, but I just couldn’t visualise it otherwise) then started cutting, folding, twisting and filing away at some steel strip until I got something I was happy with. That metal folder I got from Machine Mart made it really straight-forward to do – once I gave up trying to work out the complex combination folds and decided to just cut and weld as required
At this point, I’m chuffed Ask me again once I’ve tried fitting it into the car
Welded up the brackets, drilled holes, bolted it all together and wiggled it into the bay…
How far from the rad should I have the fan, or is “near enough” suitable? Daft thought just crossed my mind looking at that pic though … never thought to check if the thing sucks or blows …
I’m not doing anything with the electrics just yet, but could someone confirm what sort of capacity relay and fuse I’ll be needing for the thermo circuit to switch. Something like this from Maplins in a 40A?
If you could also suggest what thickness of wire I should be using too, please, that’d be useful Wouldn’t want to ruin everything by accidentally torching the car
EDIT 25/01/08 :
Graham : 40A relay is plenty big enough, 20A-25A fuse should be fine if you choose a size to small it will just blow, so no big deal use a slightly bigger one, otherwise use an ammeter to work out the current draw on the fan and fit a fuse 50% bigger to allow for start up surge, as for wire thickness just do as group4 suggested use the same thickness as the wires coming out the fan you cant go wrong then
me : what bits should I attach where to determine the current draw of the fan? I’ve got the fan, I’ve got the battery, I’ve got the multimeter … but I ain’t got the clue There’s a thermostatic switch setup to go with it all, that I picked up for about twenty quid at the Classic Motor Show last year. A Kenlowe-type affair with a rotary controller to set the trigger temp and a sensor to go in the top hose. In an ideal world I’d also like to wire in a light on the dash to show when the fan’s on. I’m avoiding a simple manual switch on the dash, as I’d most likely forget about it until the steam started billowing out from under the bonnet